Fit
There are two ways you can approach a coat. The first is as a protector of the clothing underneath like a suit or blazer trouser/skirt combo. If that's the case then the coat needs to be at least one size bigger than the jacket you wear underneath it. This rule is a must to prevent crushing the shoulders of the suit jacket or blazer. The second is that of a “Fashion” piece. More form than function. These types of coats tend to be more form fitting, shorter in length as well as come in a greater variety of colors. You can still have the functionality of water proofing on some, but not all “Fashion” raincoats have this.
Should you go Raglan or Inset sleeve? A raglan sleeve is looser in the shoulder and will give you the most comfort. Because there’s nothing structured in a raglan sleeve it slips on and off very easily. The inset sleeve is the most “Suit-like”, but can be a bit stiff. Most men prefer this type because it’s structured and accentuates the shoulders however because of the nature of the inset it can get a bit cramped and uncomfortable in the underarm area. I suggest raglan If you tend to where mostly suits and blazers because ultimately it is more comfortable. Remember that just because something is unstructured doesn’t mean it can’t fit well.
- For ladies it’s almost the complete opposite. In order to emphasize your figure I like the inset sleeve best. The severity of the shoulder is a nice contrast to the waist and will make it appear smaller. So if you are comfortable with a stiffer structured feel this is the way to go.
Perhaps owning both and switching between them depending on the situation? If this is the way you want to go my advice to you is to spend to majority of your funds on the more traditional coat because that's the one you'll be wearing for at least a few seasons whereas trends come and go.
BOTTOM LINE ON FIT:
- Tradition coat: At least one size bigger than your suit jacket or blazer.
- Trendy piece: Form fit and color.
Style
Style has more to do with your own personal taste and not so much with what the magazines are saying or the latest trends. Be true to yourself when it comes to Style and only buy what looks and feels good on and what you can see yourself wearing for a few seasons. Consider who you are and who your clients are or want them to be and your Style will happen. Repeat the last sentence because it's important. Trying to keep up with the trends in fashion is too difficult for most of us so I don't recommend even trying.
SOMETHING TO THINK ABOUT:
It’s perfectly fine to have several (2 or 3) coats in your closet that you use throughout the season.
The trick to multiplicity and staying on budget is WHERE you make the purchase.
- For Traditional name brand pieces at marked down prices; Loehmann’s, Century 21, T.J. Maxx and Marshalls.
- For TRENDIER pieces at affordable prices; New York & Company, H & M and Daffy’s.
- For both where cost doesn't matter; Hugo Boss, BCBG Max Azria and Paul Stuart.
BOTTOM LINE ON STYLE:
When it comes to Style more is better. Not more clothing, but more knowledge. The more you know yourself and the client you're seeking the easier it will be to create a cohesive business wardrobe that you'll enjoy wearing every day. Another benefit is when you buying clothing. It will also be easier than you ever thought possible. Let me also suggest for the traditional coat stay with a neutral color palette to better work into your wardrobe and have FUN with the trendier pieces.
Cost
I've been a Fashion Stylist for years and I’ve dressed and shopped for countless clients. I've seen quality traditional coats range in price from under a hundred dollars to well over a thousand. The same can be said for the cost of trendier and/or fashion pieces. The key to making this process work is to set a budget and stick to it. Go in with a plan and don’t let the salesperson change your mind. After all they’re thinking about their bottom line not yours. This is the same advice I give my clients and it is so important when shopping. No matter what budget you set for yourself this will work. When I help my clients with shopping I always ask the sales associate to show me the items within the price range I've set. This way I only see what is in the given budget I've set and choose from there. They will try to sneak in something that’s way out of your budget and that’s the time to put your foot down or get another salesperson. You have every right to do both. By following this easy step I never overspend and neither will you.
BOTTOM LINE ON COST:
- Set a budget and stick to it.
- Have the sales associate pull pieces within that price range ONLY and make your choice from those pieces.
THE BOTTOM LINE ON THE BOTTOM LINE: These 3 keys to the perfect coat are essential for any business professional. They ultimately will make your next shopping experience a pleasant one and allow you to get out of the store and onto the business at hand with a great coat…or two.
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